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Denman Island, British Columbia, Canada
Jean Cockburn retired from her professional career as an academic librarian in 2008 to become a textile artist living on Denman Island, British Columbia. She draws, quilts, embroiders, knits and crochets, makes wearable art, weaves baskets, dyes fabric, and paints watercolours. Her work has been exhibited locally in juried and group shows on Denman Island, in Courtenay, Comox, and Duncan on Vancouver Island, in West Vancouver, and across Canada with the Surface Design Association.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Completed Moneta Dress

I finished my Moneta dress today.

The fabric is Stenzo Jersey Knit from L'Oiseau Fabric Shoppe. It is 92% cotton and 8% spandex.
The Moneta dress certainly easy to construct, with excellent instructions and a very nifty technique for lining the bodice which is excellent for a sleeveless dress. I spent the most time altering the pattern. My first muslin showed serious armhole gaping, which I experience in every sleeveless dress that I purchase - it has to do with my low full bust in ratio to my narrow shoulders. I always make an inconspicuous dart of fabric in the armhole and sometimes the centre back as well,  including the facing and without any deconstruction of the garment, and I hand sew the dart on the inside. It works well for an after the fact alteration.
Devon Iott, who is giving excellent instruction with the Moneta Sewalong, recommended making a dart of the excess armhole fabric, then redrawing the pattern to eliminate the excess. I was doubtful that would give the refined fit that I want to achieve in a hand sewn garment. I found this link on the Burda Style page, that was developed to remove armhole gaping from another Colette pattern  http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/get-rid-of-a-gaping-armhole  .

Here the excess fabric has been folded out of the armhole and transferred to a newly created bust dart. I used Pellon pattern tracing fabric, a light weight nonwoven that is perfect for patterns, and is much easier to use than tissue paper, to retrace the pattern. I use Medipore medical tape to tape the alterations. It is basically the same fabric in a tape, and can be ironed and written on.

Here I have folded and cut the dart edges, and redrawn the armhole with a French curve.

Here is my lined Moneta bodice with the bust darts. It fits very well. I like the double fabric on the lined bodice as it is less clingy and drapes nicely.

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